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Iran
Culture
Iran's religiousness is its most striking cultural feature - it pervades all aspects of life. The most visible daily expressions of Iran's brand of fundamentalist Shi'ite Islam are the modest dress code and behaviour at mosques. However, other expressions of the culture can be seen in its hearty cuisine, its phenomenal woven carpets and, more recently, in the work of its film makers. In Iran, as in all Islamic societies, art favours the non-representational, the derivative and the stylised. Many Iranian art forms predate the Arab conquest, but since nearly all of them reached their peak within the Islamic era, religious influences are rarely absent. Persian carpets are Iran's most famous cultural export, dating back to the 5th century BC, and are still an integral part of religious and cultural festivals (and the economy). The most appealing and melodious traditional music is found among the ethnic minorities, such as the Turkmen, Azaris, Kurds and Lors. Persian poetry first appeared in the 9th century AD, and slowly developed into the enduring canon of epic poems and non-rhyming couplet poems which are part of its cultural treasury today. Persian painting dates back to the Seljuk period, which then faded until the 16th century when it flourished along with calligraphy, especially in Shiraz. Other notable Persian crafts include metalwork, glassware and woodwork, while, more recently, Iranian films have been remarkably successful. Mohsen Makhmalbaf, maker of Gabbeh, is Iran's most controversial, and most lauded, filmmaker. At its best, Iranian cuisine is very good. It's heavily based on rice, bread, fresh vegetables, herbs and fruit. Meat, usually lamb or mutton minced or cut into small chunks, is used to add flavour but is rarely the dominant ingredient, except in kebabs. Sadly for travellers, this usually translates into the same two or three standard dishes of kebabs or chicken, with rice, vegetables and bread - you need to be invited into homes or splurge on upmarket hotels to eat the best Iranian food. The national drink of Iran is undoubtedly chay (tea), always served scalding hot, black and and with copious amounts of sugar nearby. All sorts of delicious fresh fruit juices, milkshakes and yoghurt drinks are available throughout Iran. Alcohol is strictly forbidden to Islamic Iranians, though it is permitted for religious purposes, such as communion wine in churches, and to non-Muslims with special permission. In 2004 Iranian officials banned the smoking of the water-pipe, known locally as a qalyan, in all restaurants and leisure places. Water-pipe smoking is a traditional Middle Eastern way to relax and has been the centre of traditional culture in Iran for centuries. The water-pipe is a pipe filled with flavored tobacco that is filtered by water and smoked, often before or after a meal. Officially, the ban is in response to health concerns, although cigarette smoking is still permitted in restaurants and other areas. In practice, many teahouses and restaurants have ignored the ban, so just do as the locals do.
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